Insider tip: Graukogel ski resort in Bad Gastein - a place of power for sensual experiences of nature

Mystical ‘Fargo’ atmosphere, thick fog, barely 100 metres of visibility - this is how the Gastein Valley greets us on our ski day. Nevertheless, the car parks of the modern lifts at the Fulseck in Dorfgastein and the Schlossalmbahn in Bad Hofgastein fill up in anticipation of what the thinning clouds promise. The path leads us past both areas and on the last few metres uphill we finally break through the fog and have blue skies and bright sunshine at our destination: the time-honoured Bad Gastein and its local mountain, the Graukogel.

While most vehicles turn right towards the Stubnerkogel, we literally sneak along the narrow lanes to the Graukogelbahn cable car on the left-hand side of the valley. After a few hundred metres with the best view of the Bad Gastein townscape - once chic, now shabby-chic with a tendency towards revival - we reach the car park of the Graukogelbahn. There is comparatively little going on. No wonder, because not everyone dares to come here: the perfectly groomed pistes are challenging, the lifts easy. But a day here is worthwhile - especially for those who not only want a sporting experience, but also want to enjoy the special atmosphere and energy here.

The thermal water springs that once made Bad Gastein so popular spring up around the Graukogel. And - if you allow yourself to do so - you will notice a special calmness in the air as soon as you take the first two chairlifts. As if the water has a special calming and cleansing effect on the place. If you close your eyes, you will also notice the unique odour. Further down, the ‘normal’ smell of the forest, but the closer you get to the Graukogel II mountain station, the more pungent the odour becomes: that of ancient Swiss stone pines.

Trees and their oils are said to have a calming effect on the cardiovascular system. We can only confirm this: Even if the descents over almost 1,000 metres in altitude and 14 kilometres of pistes get your pulse racing - a short break in the Swiss stone pine forest, which is a very popular ascent route for ski tourers, quickly calms you down again. Another thing we notice is that we occasionally hear the cries of birds that sound like ravens - but these are the Swiss stone pine jay, as we find out later. This raven species is partly responsible for the fact that the stone pines with their heavy cores can reproduce.

But it's not just the feeling, hearing and smelling that are special here: the view is also astonishing. The view of the Gastein Valley as far as Bad Hofgastein is sensational and if you continue a few metres further, you can enjoy the view of the Stubnerkogel. So, and to really appeal to all the senses, we make a stopover at the Graukogelhütte and the Graukogelalm: Both huts are also open when there is no skiing, but only for torch-lit hikers, snowshoe hikers and ski tourers. The rustic huts are lovingly run with great dedication and offer local specialities (including vegetarian dishes, of course) and special menus on tour evenings.

With sharpened senses and completely relaxed, we end our skiing day on the Graukogel. Next time we'll come back with touring skis, the time after next with hiking boots. The mountain really is worth a visit at any time of year.

PS: One final tip: the Graukogel is one of the few mountains with natural snow, no snow-making facilities are used: the reason for this is that it borders on the Hohe Tauern National Park. It is therefore advisable to enquire in advance whether the pistes and lifts are open (from Thursday to Sunday if there is enough snow) and whether the lift will take you to the top. Alternatively, you can of course strap on your touring skis at any time and climb up yourself, which many locals in particular do on the free ski touring routes. Fun fact: If there is not enough snow at the bottom, some people throw themselves on their bikes, ride up as far as they can and then strap on their skis to cover the last few metres in altitude on foot.

VIF (Very Interesting Facts) about the Graukogel:

➤ The 1958 World Ski Championships took place there: the Austrians won 4 gold, 4 silver and one bronze medal

➤ 17 thermal springs spring up around the Graukogel

➤ They produce 5 million litres of thermal water every day, with temperatures of up to 48 degrees

➤ The stone pines on the Graukogel are up to 400 years old

➤ Particularly tasty schnapps can be made from the pine cones 😉